A hearty Pugliese baked casserole of candele pasta, tender potatoes, peeled tomatoes, and two cheeses — caciocavallo and pecorino — all topped with a golden breadcrumb crust and baked until bubbling and crisp.
| Amount | Ingredient |
|---|---|
| 230 g (8 oz) | Long candele pasta (or ziti, broken into 2-inch / 5 cm pieces) |
| 750 g (26 oz / 1 large can) | Peeled tomatoes (preferably San Marzano) |
| 230 g (8 oz) | Caciocavallo silano cheese (or provola, cut into ½-inch cubes) |
| 400 g (14 oz) | Potatoes (Yukon Gold or Russet) |
| 50 g (½ cup) | Pecorino Romano, grated |
| 50 g (½ cup) | Breadcrumbs (plain, unseasoned) |
| 200 g (¾ cup) | Water |
| — | Salt, to taste |
| — | Olive oil, for drizzling |
| — | Dried oregano, to taste |
In the southern Italian region of Puglia, the tiella is a beloved tradition — a layered, baked dish that transforms simple, humble ingredients into something far greater than the sum of its parts. This version pairs long candele pasta (broken into manageable pieces) with chunks of potato, all suspended in a rich tomato sauce and studded with cubes of caciocavallo silano cheese, whose mild, elastic melt binds everything together. A blanket of golden breadcrumbs and pecorino forms a crisp, savory crust on top, while a generous drizzle of olive oil and a dusting of oregano perfume the whole dish with Mediterranean warmth. It's rustic, comforting, and deeply satisfying — the kind of food that tastes like a grandmother's love, made with whatever was in the pantry. Serve it as a substantial primo piatto or as a main course with a simple green salad.
Use level tablespoons. All produce is medium unless specified. Caciocavallo silano is a semi-hard stretched-curd cheese from Southern Italy with a mild, buttery flavor that melts beautifully — if unavailable, substitute provola, scamorza, or a mild mozzarella (squeezed and dried). Candele pasta are long, hollow tubes; if you can't find them, use ziti, penne, or any tubular pasta. The key is to break the pasta into roughly 2-inch pieces so they layer well with the potatoes.
Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C).
Peel the potatoes and cut them into ¾-inch (2 cm) chunks — roughly the size of a walnut. Place in a bowl of cold water to prevent browning while you prepare the other ingredients.
Break the candele pasta into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces by holding each tube and snapping it over the edge of your counter or using your hands. (Alternatively, place the pasta in a sealed plastic bag and break it with a rolling pin.)
Cut the caciocavallo into ½-inch (1 cm) cubes.
Crush the peeled tomatoes by hand directly into a bowl, squeezing each tomato through your fingers until you have a chunky, rustic sauce. Alternatively, crush them with a potato masher in the bowl. Do not blend them smooth — the texture of hand-crushed tomatoes is part of the dish's character.
In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, grated pecorino, and a generous pinch of dried oregano. Drizzle with about 1 tablespoon of olive oil and stir with a fork until the breadcrumbs are evenly moistened. Set aside.
The breadcrumb topping is what gives a tiella its signature golden crust. Don't skip the oil — it's what makes the crumbs toast to a deep, nutty gold rather than burning dry. If you have fresh breadcrumbs, use them; they absorb the oil better and create a more substantial crust than the dry, powdery store-bought kind.
Lightly oil the bottom and sides of your baking dish with olive oil.
Layer the ingredients in the prepared dish, distributing evenly:
The water is essential — it creates steam during baking that cooks the pasta and potatoes without having to pre-boil them. The pasta absorbs the tomato and water mixture as it bakes, becoming tender and flavorful. Don't stir after adding the water; the layers will meld naturally in the oven.
Place the dish in the preheated oven, uncovered.
Bake for 35–40 minutes, until:
If the top is browning too quickly but the pasta isn't tender yet, tent the dish loosely with aluminum foil for the last 10 minutes of baking.
Let the tiella rest for 5 minutes out of the oven before serving — this allows the sauce to settle and the pasta to absorb any remaining liquid, ensuring a cohesive, spoonable dish rather than a soupy mess.
The resting step is crucial. Straight out of the oven, the tiella will look loose and liquid — after 5 minutes of rest, the pasta absorbs the excess moisture and the dish sets into a gorgeous, spoonable casserole. If you serve it immediately, it will be soupy. Patience pays off.
Spoon the tiella into shallow bowls or onto warm plates, making sure each serving gets some of the crispy breadcrumb topping.
Drizzle with a final touch of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of fresh oregano if you have it. Serve warm.
This dish is a meal in itself — serve it with nothing more than a simple green salad dressed with lemon and olive oil, and maybe a glass of a crisp white wine like a Verdeca or a Primitivo rosé from Puglia.
| Mistake | Why It Hurts | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Pre-boiling the pasta | Pasta becomes mushy, overcooked, and loses structure | Layer the pasta raw — it cooks perfectly in the oven juices |
| Cutting potatoes too large | Potatoes remain hard and crunchy in the center | Cut into uniform ¾-inch (2 cm) chunks |
| Skipping the water | Not enough liquid to cook the pasta; dish burns or dries out | Measure the water precisely (¾ cup / 200 g) and pour evenly |
| Stirring after adding water | Disturbs the layers; breadcrumb topping sinks into the liquid | Do not stir — layers should remain distinct |
| Not resting before serving | Tiella is soupy and runny; falls apart on the plate | Rest for 5 minutes out of the oven before serving |
| Overcrowding the dish | Pasta layer is too thick; some pieces cook unevenly | Use a dish large enough for a single layer of pasta with room to expand |
| Using dry, sandy breadcrumbs | Crust is powdery and burns instead of toasting golden | Use fresh or panko breadcrumbs; toss with oil for even toasting |
| Skimping on olive oil | The dish lacks richness; breadcrumbs don't crisp properly | Be generous — at least 3 tablespoons total, divided |
Photo: `vol1_250.png` — A deep ceramic baking dish holds a golden, bubbling tiella of pasta and potatoes. The top is a mosaic of toasted breadcrumbs, melted pecorino, and oregano, with pockets of caciocavallo cheese peeking through in molten, golden patches. A serving spoon has lifted a portion from the corner, revealing the tender pasta pieces and soft potato chunks suspended in a rich, rust-colored tomato sauce. The dish sits on a rustic wooden table, steam rising gently in the warm light. A linen napkin and a sprig of fresh oregano lie beside it.
Recipe from "The Italian Kitchen" by Vita Milanese — Volume 1: Pasta Perfetto
Recipe from The Italian Kitchen by Vita Milanese — Volume 1 · Pasta Perfetto. Discover all volumes on the ebook page.