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Tomato Passata

Tomato Passata

Volume 2 · Sunday Sauce

1. Why This Recipe Works

Tomato passata—smooth, uncooked tomato purée—is the quiet backbone of Italian cooking, appearing in everything from Neapolitan pizza sauce to slow-simmered ragù. The best passata is not cooked down into a thick sauce but rather gently reduced to concentrate the tomato's natural sweetness, then left with a light, velvety texture that lets the fruit's acidity and umami shine. We wanted a foolproof method for making passata at home that rivals the quality of artisan Italian imports. Using ripe San Marzano tomatoes—known for their dense flesh, few seeds, and balanced sweet-tart flavor—is the first step. Blanching and shocking the tomatoes makes peeling effortless, and passing them through a food mill (or a very brief blitz in a blender) preserves a subtle texture that labels the finished passata as homemade, not industrial. A gentle simmer with fresh basil and salt concentrates the purée by about one-third, yielding a rich, versatile base that can be canned, refrigerated, or frozen for year-round use.

2. Yield

Makes about 4 to 5 cups (1 to 1.2 liters)

3. Total Time

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes

5. Before You Begin

Select tomatoes that are deep red, fragrant, and slightly soft to the touch but not mushy. Underripe tomatoes will produce a passata that is overly acidic and lacks sweetness. You will need a large pot for blanching, an ice bath, and a food mill or a blender. A food mill (with the medium or fine disc) is strongly preferred; it separates skins and seeds while preserving the pulp's texture. If using a blender, be careful not to over-process—passata should retain a faint graininess, not be whipped into a foam. Sterilize your jars if you plan to can the passata for long-term storage; otherwise, it can be refrigerated or frozen.

7. Key Equipment

8. Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. Prepare the tomatoes: Inspect each tomato and discard any that show signs of mold, rot, or heavy bruising. Wash the tomatoes thoroughly under cold running water. Remove the stems by twisting them off or cutting a small cone around the stem base.
  1. Cut the tomatoes: Using a sharp paring knife, cut each tomato in half lengthwise (from stem end to blossom end). This exposes the interior and ensures even blanching.
  1. Blanch the tomatoes: Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl. Working in batches of 5 to 6 tomato halves, lower them into the boiling water using a slotted spoon. Blanch for 30 to 60 seconds, until the skins begin to wrinkle and peel back at the cut edges.
  1. Shock the tomatoes: Immediately transfer the blanched tomatoes to the ice bath using the slotted spoon. Let them cool for 1 to 2 minutes, until they are cool enough to handle. The skins should slip off easily.
  1. Peel the tomatoes: Remove the tomatoes from the ice bath and peel off the skins with your fingers or a paring knife. Discard the skins. If any skins remain firmly attached, return the tomato to the boiling water for an additional 15 to 20 seconds.
  1. Process the tomatoes: Pass the peeled tomatoes through a food mill fitted with the medium disc. Set the mill over a large bowl and process until only skins and seeds remain in the hopper. Alternatively, transfer the peeled tomatoes to a blender and pulse 3 to 5 times (1-second pulses) until the tomatoes are broken down but still slightly chunky — do not blend continuously, as this will incorporate air and create a frothy, sauce-like texture.
  1. Simmer the passata: Transfer the processed tomato purée to a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Add the fresh basil leaves and salt. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low to maintain a steady, lazy bubble.
  1. Reduce and thicken: Cook the passata, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until it has reduced by about one-third and thickened to a velvety, sauce-like consistency, 30 to 40 minutes. The passata should coat the back of a spoon but still be pourable. Taste and adjust salt.
  1. Remove the basil: Use tongs or a slotted spoon to remove and discard the basil leaves (they have given their flavor).
  1. Jar or freeze the passata: If canning, ladle the hot passata into sterilized jars, leaving ½ inch (1 cm) headspace. Wipe the rims clean, seal with new lids, and process in a boiling-water bath for 35 minutes (pint jars) or 40 minutes (quart jars). If refrigerating or freezing, let the passata cool completely before transferring to airtight containers.

9. Storage

10. Make Ahead / Leftovers

Passata is the ultimate make-ahead pantry staple. Make a double batch at the height of tomato season and freeze or can it for winter use. Leftover passata (even just a few tablespoons) can be stirred into soups, stews, braised beans, or scrambled eggs. It also makes an excellent quick pizza sauce straight from the jar—just spread on dough and top as desired.

11. Serving Suggestions

12. Recipe Variations

13. Science of the Recipe

Blanching tomatoes serves two purposes. First, the hot water causes the thin, waxy cuticle layer to expand and separate from the flesh, making the skin easy to remove. Second, the brief heat exposure inactivates enzymes (primarily polygalacturonase and pectin methylesterase) that would otherwise break down the tomato's pectin structure over time, turning a raw purée into a watery, separated mess. The subsequent simmer concentrates the passata through evaporation while simultaneously driving off volatile compounds that contribute to raw, "green" tomato flavors, leaving behind a sweeter, more savory purée. The addition of salt at the beginning of simmering is intentional: salt dissolves into the tomato's free water and raises the boiling point of the liquid fraction, increasing the rate of evaporation and shortening the reduction time.

14. Troubleshooting

15. Nutritional Information (per ½-cup serving)

16. Related Recipes

17. Test Kitchen Notes

18. Recipe Source

Developed by the Sunday Sauce Test Kitchen. Based on traditional methods from the Campania region of Italy, where passata has been a pantry staple for generations.

Recipe from The Italian Kitchen by Vita Milanese — Volume 2 · Sunday Sauce. Discover all volumes on the ebook page.

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