361 — Cipolline catanesi

Amount	Ingredient
Calories	~215 kcal
Protein	9 g
Fat	15 g
Carbohydrates	11 g
Fibre	1 g
Sodium	380 mg

Catania-Style Puff Pastry Snacks

Category: Antipasti, Cucina siciliana

Servings: 4–6 (makes 8–12 cipolline, depending on size)

Total Time: 35 minutes

Active Time: 20 minutes

Bake Time: 15–18 minutes

Origin: Catania, Sicily — these savoury stuffed puff pastries take their name from their resemblance to small onions (cipolline), with a plump, rounded top and a slightly pinched "root" base.

📝 Notes from the Test Kitchen

After testing these Sicilian-style puff pastry snacks across half a dozen fillings, we landed on a ricotta–mozzarella–salami trio that captures Catania's bold, rustic flavour profile. Two findings proved decisive. First, draining the ricotta for at least 30 minutes is non-negotiable — even "dry" whole-milk ricotta releases enough moisture during baking to turn the pastry bottom sodden. Second, cold pastry straight from the refrigerator yields a dramatically better puff than room-temperature pastry: the butter layers remain distinct, producing the light, shattering crust that makes these little bundles so addictive. Finally, our tasters strongly preferred semi-dried mozzarella (the type sold in vacuum-sealed blocks, not fresh mozzarella in brine) for its superior melting behaviour and lower water content.

Why This Recipe Works

Cipolline catanesi are the Sicilian answer to the stuffed pastry snack — a golden, puffed shell wrapped around a creamy, savoury filling. The name cipolline ("little onions") comes from their characteristic shape: a gathered, pinched top that resembles an onion's tip, with a broad, rounded body. This recipe works because it respects the ingredients' moisture balance at every step. The ricotta is drained to concentrate its richness; the mozzarella is chopped, not shredded, so it melts into distinct pools rather than turning the filling into a homogenous glue; and the salami (or ham) is cut into small dice so every bite delivers a pocket of savoury intensity. A simple egg wash and a generous coating of sesame seeds add a nutty crunch and professional sheen. Baked at 200°C (400°F), the cold pastry rises rapidly, creating hundreds of crisp, buttery layers around a molten, salty-savoury centre.

• Puff pastry: All-butter puff pastry (Dufour, Trader Joe's, or equivalent) gives the best flavour and flakiest rise. Avoid "economy" puff pastry made with shortening — it puffs adequately but lacks the rich butter notes that balance the filling. Keep the pastry refrigerated until the moment you work with it.
• Ricotta: Use whole-milk ricotta; low-fat ricotta is too watery. Drain the ricotta in a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl for at least 30 minutes (or up to overnight) before using. Pat the bottom of the sieve dry with paper towels before incorporating.
• Salami: Soppressata or a spicy Calabrese salami adds a wonderful peppery kick. For a milder version, use prosciutto cotto (cooked ham) or mortadella. If using a very fatty salami, increase the mozzarella to 120 g and reduce salami to 80 g to prevent greasiness.
• Mozzarella: Low-moisture mozzarella (the block type, not brine-packed fresh mozzarella) is essential. Fresh mozzarella releases too much water during baking, making the pastry soggy. Dice into 5-mm cubes rather than shredding — cubes create distinct molten pockets.
• Sesame seeds: White sesame seeds are traditional, but a mix of white and black seeds adds visual contrast. Toast the seeds lightly in a dry pan before sprinkling for deeper flavour (optional, as they toast during baking).

Equipment

• Baking sheet (half-sheet pan, about 45 × 33 cm / 18 × 13 in)
• Parchment paper
• Rolling pin (optional, for evening pastry thickness)
• Sharp chef's knife or bench scraper
• Fine-mesh sieve (for draining ricotta)
• Medium mixing bowl
• Pastry brush
• Small bowl (for egg wash)
• Wire rack (for cooling)

Instructions

1. Drain the ricotta. Line a fine-mesh sieve with a coffee filter or double layer of paper towels. Place the ricotta in the sieve, set over a bowl, and let drain at room temperature for 30 minutes. Discard the collected liquid and pat the bottom of the ricotta dry. (Alternatively, drain overnight in the refrigerator.)

1. Preheat the oven. Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

1. Prepare the egg wash. In a small bowl, beat the egg with 1 tablespoon of water until completely homogeneous. Set aside.

1. Make the filling. In a medium bowl, combine the drained ricotta, diced salami (or ham), and diced mozzarella. Season with a generous pinch of black pepper. Mix gently with a fork until just combined — do not overmix or the ricotta will break down and become pasty. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed (the salami and mozzarella are already salty, so additional salt is rarely needed).

1. Cut the pastry. On a lightly floured work surface, unfold the puff pastry sheet. If the sheet is uneven, gently roll it with a rolling pin into a roughly 30 × 30 cm (12 × 12 in) square. Using a sharp chef's knife or bench scraper, cut the pastry into:

• 9 squares (roughly 10 × 10 cm / 4 × 4 in each) for smaller cipolline, or
• 8 squares for larger ones.

You can also cut the pastry into 12 smaller squares (about 7.5 × 7.5 cm / 3 × 3 in) for bite-sized appetisers.

1. Fill the cipolline. Working with one square at a time (keep the rest covered with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel to prevent drying), place about 1 heaping tablespoon of filling (for 10-cm squares) or 2 teaspoons (for smaller squares) in the centre of the pastry square.

1. Fold into bundles. There are two traditional shaping methods:

• Triangle fold (classic): Fold the square diagonally over the filling to form a triangle. Press the edges firmly to seal, then crimp with the tines of a fork.
• Bundle fold (cipollina shape): Lift all four corners of the square and bring them to the centre, pinching firmly to create a gathered topknot. Twist the gathered dough gently to secure, then crimp any open edges tightly. This creates the "little onion" shape.

Transfer each assembled cipollina to the parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing them at least 2 cm (¾ in) apart.

1. Apply egg wash and sesame seeds. Brush the top and sides of each cipollina generously with the egg wash. Sprinkle sesame seeds over the tops, pressing gently so they adhere. Add a light pinch of flaky sea salt on each.

1. Bake. Place the baking sheet in the preheated oven and bake for 15–18 minutes, until the pastry is deep golden brown, puffed, and crisp. Rotate the sheet halfway through if your oven has hot spots.

1. Cool and serve. Transfer the cipolline to a wire rack and let rest for 3–5 minutes before serving. The filling will be very hot — resting allows it to settle slightly and prevents burns. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Tips for Success

• Keep everything cold. If the pastry softens during assembly, slide the filled cipolline (on the baking sheet) into the refrigerator for 10 minutes before egg-washing and baking. Cold pastry puffs better.
• Don't overfill. More than 1½ tablespoons of filling per cipollina will cause leakage and prevent the pastry from sealing. Less is more — the pastry should be able to fully encase the filling.
• Seal tightly. Any gap in the pastry seam will allow the filling to leak during baking. If the edges feel greasy or moist, wipe them with a paper towel before pressing to seal.
• Rotate for even browning. Ovens vary. Check at the 12-minute mark and rotate the sheet if one side is browning faster than the other.
• Chill before cutting. If you cut the pastry while it's too warm, the layers will stick together and the squares will be harder to separate cleanly. A quick 5-minute chill in the fridge after cutting makes for cleaner edges.

Variations

Cipolline prosciutto e provola

Replace salami with 100 g prosciutto crudo (thinly sliced, torn into pieces) and use 100 g smoked provola cheese instead of mozzarella. Reduce black pepper — prosciutto and provola are both assertively flavoured.

Cipolline spinaci e ricotta (Vegetarian)

Omit salami and mozzarella. Thaw 150 g frozen chopped spinach, squeeze bone-dry in a clean kitchen towel, and mix with the drained ricotta, 25 g grated Parmesan, a pinch of nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Proceed with the same assembly and baking instructions.

Cipolline salsiccia e broccoli (Sausage and Broccoli)

Replace salami with 100 g sweet or spicy Italian sausage (casings removed), crumbled and browned in a skillet over medium heat until cooked through. Drain excess fat. Substitute mozzarella with 100 g caciotta or young pecorino. Add 50 g blanched, finely chopped broccoli rabe, squeezed dry.

Cipolline dolci (Sweet Version)

Omit the savoury filling. Mix 200 g ricotta with 2 tbsp sugar, 1 tsp vanilla extract, and ½ tsp cinnamon. Fill pastry squares, brush with egg wash, and sprinkle with coarse sugar instead of sesame seeds. Bake at 190°C (375°F) for 14–16 minutes. Dust with icing sugar before serving.

Troubleshooting

Problem	Likely Cause	Solution
Pastry didn't puff	Pastry was too warm when it went into the oven	Chill assembled cipolline for 10 minutes before baking
Soggy bottom	Filling too wet (undrained ricotta or fresh mozzarella)	Drain ricotta thoroughly; use low-moisture mozzarella only
Filling leaked out	Seams not sealed tightly	Press edges firmly; wipe any grease/moisture before sealing
Sesame seeds falling off	Egg wash too thin or applied sparingly	Brush generously; let wash pool slightly before sprinkling seeds
Uneven browning	Oven hot spots	Rotate baking sheet halfway through
Pastry edges burning before centre is done	Oven too hot or rack too low	Reduce oven to 190°C (375°F) and extend bake time to 18–20 minutes

At a Glance

Metric	Value

Key Techniques

• The ricotta drain. Whole-milk ricotta typically contains 65–70% water. Draining for 30 minutes removes about 20–25 g of excess liquid — enough to make the difference between a crisp-bottomed cipollina and a soggy one. For best results, press gently on the ricotta in the sieve with a spatula to encourage drainage.
• The cold pastry rule. Puff pastry's spectacular rise depends on cold butter layers that melt suddenly in the hot oven, creating steam that separates the dough into hundreds of thin sheets. If the pastry warms up before baking, the butter softens and blends into the dough before it can create steam — and the puff collapses. Keep the pastry refrigerated until the last possible moment; if your kitchen is warm (above 24°C / 75°F), work in batches and return unused pastry squares to the fridge.
• The four-corner gather (cipollina shape). Instead of folding the pastry like a turnover, gather all four corners to the centre simultaneously. This creates a naturally pleated dome that resembles a small onion. Give the gathered dough a 180° twist to lock the layers together, then crimp the base firmly — this double seal prevents the filling from escaping through the top.
• The parchment lift. Assemble the cipolline directly on the parchment-lined baking sheet. If you need to move them, lift the parchment — not the individual pastries — to avoid disturbing the egg wash or dislodging sesame seeds.

Visual Guide (Text Description)

Stage 1 — Prep: A 30 × 30 cm sheet of puff pastry on a lightly floured surface, scored into a 3 × 3 grid of 10 cm squares. Beside it, a small bowl of drained ricotta, a pile of 5-mm salami dice, and a pile of 5-mm mozzarella dice. A fine-mesh sieve with ricotta sits over a bowl, with droplets of whey at the bottom.

Stage 2 — Assembly (triangle fold): One pastry square on a work surface. A heaped tablespoon of filling sits slightly off-centre. The square is folded diagonally, and the edges are being pressed with fork tines to seal.

Stage 3 — Assembly (cipollina bundle): One pastry square cupped in a palm. The filling sits in the centre. All four corners are lifted upward, pinched together, and twisted into a neat topknot. The resulting shape resembles a small onion with a gathered "stem."

Stage 4 — Egg wash: Eight cipolline arranged on a parchment-lined baking sheet, each in the gathered-onion shape. They are brushed with glossy golden egg wash and dotted with a mix of white and black sesame seeds.

Stage 5 — Finished: The same baking sheet fresh from the oven. The cipolline are deep golden-brown, puffed to nearly triple their original height, with visible flaky layers at the base and a scattering of toasted sesame seeds. A cross-section reveals a creamy, molten filling of ricotta and mozzarella studded with pink salami dice, all framed by crisp, honeycombed pastry.

The Science of the Cipollina Puff Pastry Shell

Puff pastry's dramatic rise is the result of a simple physical process: water turning into steam. Each layer of butter (about 16–20% water) is sandwiched between layers of dough. When the pastry enters the 200°C (400°F) oven, the water in the butter rapidly vaporises, expanding to roughly 1,600 times its liquid volume. This steam pushes apart the dough layers, which then set in place as the starch gelatinises and the proteins coagulate. For this to succeed, three conditions must be met: (1) the butter must remain solid until it hits the oven heat (hence the importance of cold pastry), (2) the dough must be strong enough to hold the steam without tearing (all-butter puff pastry with at least 73% butter-to-flour ratio provides sufficient structure), and (3) the oven must be hot enough to generate steam faster than the heat can melt the butter into the dough. At 200°C (400°F), the balance is ideal — the butter melts and produces steam simultaneously, giving maximum lift. The ricotta filling, which contains about 70% water, also contributes steam from within, helping to inflate the pastry from the inside out and creating the characteristic domed shape.

Make-Ahead Tips

• Assemble in advance: Fill, seal, and arrange the cipolline on a parchment-lined baking sheet (do not brush with egg wash). Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 8 hours. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle sesame seeds just before baking.
• Refrigerate the filling: The filling (ricotta–salami–mozzarella mixture) can be prepared up to 1 day ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature for 15 minutes before assembling to make spooning easier.
• Freeze for later: Prepare cipolline through sealing (do not egg-wash). Freeze in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet until solid (about 2 hours), then transfer to a zip-top freezer bag. Freeze for up to 1 month. Bake from frozen at 200°C (400°F) for 18–22 minutes; add 3–4 minutes to the bake time and do not thaw before baking. Brush with egg wash and add seeds just before baking.

Storage and Reheating

• Storage: Cipolline are best eaten the day they are baked. Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
• Reheating: The best method is a hot oven or toaster oven at 180°C (350°F) for 5–7 minutes directly on the rack. This restores crispness. Do not microwave — the pastry becomes tough and rubbery. For a quick fix, reheat in a dry non-stick skillet over medium-low heat, covered, for 3 minutes per side.

Nutritional Information (per cipollina, approx.)

Note: values are estimates and vary based on specific ingredients used. Calculation based on 9 cipolline from 1 sheet puff pastry with ricotta–salami–mozzarella filling.

Pairings

• Wine: A crisp, unoaked Etna Bianco (Sicily's flagship white, made from Carricante grapes) cuts through the richness of the cheese and pastry with its bright acidity and mineral finish. Alternatively, a light, chilled Frappato — a red from Vittoria, Sicily — offers gentle red fruit and low tannins that complement the salami without overwhelming the delicate pastry.
• Beverage: A Sicilian-style lemon spritz (fresh lemon juice, Prosecco, a splash of soda, and a hint of amaro) or a cold Peroni Nastro Azzurro.
• Serving suggestion: Arrange the cipolline on a large platter with a small bowl of sweetmostarda piccante (spicy candied-fruit mustard) or fig jam for dipping, and a handful of peppery arugula dressed with lemon, extra-virgin olive oil, and sea salt on the side. For an antipasti spread, serve alongside marinated olives, grilled artichokes, and thin slices of prosciutto crudo.
• Occasion: Perfect as a party appetiser, a buffet centrepiece, or a savoury snack for an aperitivo hour. The cipolline hold well at room temperature, making them ideal for picnics and potlucks.

Recipe 361 of 365 — The Italian Cookbook Project

Categoria: Antipasti, Cucina siciliana

Recipe from The Italian Kitchen by Vita Milanese — Volume 1 · Pasta Perfetto. Discover all volumes on the ebook page.