332 — Sedano rapa Café de Paris

Amount	Ingredient
Fries are soggy and greasy	Not dried enough before first fry; oil temperature too low Dry matchsticks thoroughly; maintain oil at 350°F / 175°C for first fry and 375°F / 190°C for second
Fries are pale and soft	Skipped or rushed the first fry (blanch); oil not hot enough Always double-fry; verify oil temperature with a thermometer
Oil splatters violently	Potato matchsticks still wet Pat dry with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel until no moisture transfers
Sauce breaks / looks greasy	Pan too hot; compound butter added to dry pan without base fat Add 1 tbsp plain butter first; use medium heat; baste gently
Celeriac is bland	Insufficient salt in cooking water; under-seasoned compound butter Salt the cooking water generously (like pasta water); season butter assertively

Celeriac Café de Paris with Matchstick Fries

Category: Contorni (Side Dishes)

Servings: 4

Total Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Active Time: 45 minutes

Level of Difficulty: Medium

1. WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Sedano rapa Café de Paris is a Swiss-Italian classic that transforms humble celery root into a centerpiece-worthy dish — tender braised celeriac paired with crisp golden matchstick fries and laced with the legendary Café de Paris compound butter. The sauce, invented at the Café de Paris in Geneva in the 1940s, is a savory emulsion of butter, fresh herbs, capers, Dijon mustard, and anchovy that clings to each wedge of earthy celeriac like a rich, herbal blanket. Our version builds flavor through a three-step process: we first parcook the celeriac in salted water to tenderize and season it from within, then finish it in a pan with the Café de Paris butter so the sauce penetrates every bite. The matchstick fries (pommes allumettes) provide a contrasting crunchy-salty counterpoint that makes this side dish feel like a complete meal. Unlike heavy cream-based sauces, the compound butter approach keeps the celeriac's natural flavor front and center while delivering a luxurious, melt-in-your-mouth texture.

For the Celeriac

For the Café de Paris Sauce (Compound Butter)

For the Matchstick Fries (Pommes Allumettes)

3. EQUIPMENT

• Large pot (6–8 qt / 6–8 L) for boiling celeriac
• Large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot (5–6 qt) for deep frying
• Chef's knife and cutting board
• Vegetable peeler
• Mandoline slicer (optional, for even wedges)
• Microplane or fine rasp grater (for lemon zest and anchovy)
• Mixing bowls (small and medium)
• Fork or small spatula (for blending compound butter)
• Plastic wrap or parchment paper (for shaping compound butter log)
• Spider skimmer or slotted spoon
• Deep-fry thermometer
• Paper towels or wire rack (for draining fries)
• Kitchen scale
• Measuring spoons and cups
• Fine-mesh sieve (for draining capers)

4. PREPARATION

1. Prepare the celeriac: Fill a large bowl with cold water and add 1 tablespoon lemon juice (this acidulated water prevents browning). Using a sharp chef's knife, slice off the top and bottom of the celeriac to create flat surfaces. Stand it on one end and cut away the tough, knobby outer skin in thick strips — the skin is gnarled and fibrous; cut deeply enough to reveal the creamy white flesh underneath. Quarter the celeriac through the core, then cut each quarter into 2–3 wedges (about 2 inches / 5 cm each). Submerge wedges in the acidulated water until ready to cook.
2. Prepare the shallot and garlic: Mince the shallot finely. Mince the garlic. Set aside separately.
3. Prepare the herbs: Wash and dry the parsley, chives, tarragon, and thyme. Chop finely. Snip chives. Set aside.
4. Prepare the capers: If using salt-packed capers, rinse and soak in cold water for 10 minutes, then drain and chop. If using brine-packed capers, drain, rinse, and chop.
5. Prepare the anchovy: Mince the anchovy fillets on a cutting board, then use the flat side of the knife to smear them into a paste.
6. Prepare the potatoes: Scrub the potatoes clean (do not peel). Cut lengthwise into ⅛-inch (3 mm) thick slices, then stack the slices and cut lengthwise into ⅛-inch (3 mm) matchsticks. Place in a large bowl of cold water and swish to remove excess starch. Drain and pat thoroughly dry with a clean kitchen towel or paper towels — moisture is the enemy of crispy fries.
7. Bring butter to room temperature: Cut the stick of butter into tablespoon-sized pieces and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before making the compound butter.

5. COOK THE CELERIAC

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt. Drain the celeriac wedges from the acidulated water and add to the boiling water. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook until the celeriac is tender throughout but not mushy — a paring knife inserted into the thickest part should meet little resistance, about 20–25 minutes.

Drain the celeriac in a colander and let it sit for 2 minutes to allow excess moisture to steam off. (Patting dry with paper towels is optional but helps the butter sauce adhere better.) Tent loosely with foil and keep warm while you prepare the fries and sauce.

6. MAKE THE MATCHSTICK FRIES

1. Heat the oil: Add oil to a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Heat over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 350°F (175°C) on a deep-fry thermometer.
2. First fry (blanch): Working in 3 batches (to avoid crowding and temperature drop), add the dried potato matchsticks to the hot oil. Fry until the potatoes are cooked through but not yet colored, about 3–4 minutes. The oil temperature will drop to about 325°F (160°C) — adjust heat to maintain this range.
3. Drain: Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the par-fried matchsticks to a paper towel-lined baking sheet. Spread in a single layer. Let rest at least 5 minutes (and up to 2 hours at room temperature).
4. Second fry (crisp): Just before serving, reheat the oil to 375°F (190°C). Fry the par-cooked matchsticks in batches again until deep golden brown and shatteringly crisp, about 2–3 minutes.
5. Season: Transfer to a fresh paper towel-lined sheet, sprinkle immediately with salt, and toss gently. Keep warm in a low oven (200°F / 95°C) while you finish the dish.

7. MAKE THE CAFÉ DE PARIS SAUCE

While the celeriac cooks and the fries rest between their two frying stages, prepare the Café de Paris compound butter:

1. Place the softened butter in a medium mixing bowl. Using a fork or small spatula, mash until smooth and creamy.
2. Add the anchovy paste, chopped capers, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Stir until thoroughly combined.
3. Add the minced shallot, minced garlic, parsley, chives, tarragon, thyme, curry powder, paprika, cayenne, salt, and black pepper. Stir until the herbs and spices are evenly distributed throughout the butter.
4. Transfer the butter mixture to a sheet of plastic wrap or parchment paper. Shape into a log about 1½ inches (4 cm) in diameter, rolling and twisting the ends tight to form a compact cylinder. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes to firm up (or up to 1 week — see Make Ahead, section 11).

The sauce should taste savory, herbal, and bright — the anchovy and capers provide savory depth (umami), the mustard and lemon cut through the richness, and the curry powder adds a subtle warmth that is characteristic of the Café de Paris tradition.

8. FINISH & ASSEMBLY

1. Slice the chilled Café de Paris compound butter into 8–12 rounds, each about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick.
2. Place a large nonstick or stainless-steel skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon unsalted butter and swirl to coat.
3. Add the drained, warm celeriac wedges in a single layer (cut sides down if they have a flat edge). Cook until lightly browned on the first side, about 2–3 minutes.
4. Add the compound butter rounds to the pan. As the butter melts, tilt the pan and use a spoon to baste the celeriac wedges with the foaming herb butter. Cook, turning gently, until the celeriac is fully coated, glossy, and heated through, about 2 minutes more. The sauce should be thick and emulsified, not greasy.
5. Remove from heat. Taste a small piece of celeriac and adjust seasoning with a pinch of salt or squeeze of lemon if needed.

9. TO SERVE

Arrange the Café de Paris–glazed celeriac wedges on a warm serving platter or divide among four warmed plates. Pile the crispy matchstick fries alongside or on top of the celeriac. Spoon any remaining herb butter from the pan over the celeriac. Garnish with a sprinkle of fresh parsley (if using) and a few grinds of black pepper. Serve immediately — the fries are at their peak within the first 5 minutes, and the compound butter should be molten and fragrant.

This dish works beautifully as a side to grilled steak, roast chicken, or pan-seared fish, or as a hearty vegetarian main with a green salad.

10. VARIATIONS

• Celeriac Café de Paris with Roasted Potatoes (instead of fries): Skip the double-fry. Cut potatoes into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes, toss with olive oil and salt, and roast at 425°F (220°C) for 30–35 minutes until crispy and golden. Serve alongside the glazed celeriac.
• Celeriac Café de Paris Gratin: Instead of wedges, slice the celeriac into ¼-inch (6 mm) rounds. Layer in a buttered baking dish with the Café de Paris butter (melted and spooned between layers). Dot top with remaining butter, add ¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable broth, and bake at 375°F (190°C) for 40 minutes until tender and golden.
• Grilled Celeriac Café de Paris: Parcook the celeriac wedges as directed, then grill over medium-high heat (450°F / 230°C) for 3–4 minutes per side. Finish with melted Café de Paris butter brushed on just before serving.
• Celeriac Purée with Café de Paris Butter: Cook the celeriac until very tender (30 minutes), then purée in a food processor with the Café de Paris butter (melted) and 2–3 tablespoons cream. Season and serve as a luxurious purée alongside roasted meats.
• Extra-Herb Sauce: Increase the fresh herbs by 50% (3 tbsp parsley, 1½ tbsp chives, 1½ tbsp tarragon) for a more vibrant, garden-fresh flavor.
• Smoked Café de Paris: Substitute the paprika with smoked paprika and add ¼ teaspoon smoked salt for a subtle campfire note that pairs well with grilled meats.

11. MAKE AHEAD & STORAGE

• Café de Paris compound butter: Prepare up to 1 week in advance. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, then place in a zipper-lock bag. Refrigerate. Alternatively, freeze for up to 3 months — thaw in the refrigerator overnight before using. The compound butter can also be sliced into rounds and frozen individually on a parchment-lined sheet tray, then transferred to a bag; use directly from frozen, adding 1 minute to the melting time.
• Celeriac (parcooked): Cook the celeriac wedges through step 5 up to 2 days in advance. Drain, let cool, and refrigerate in an airtight container. To serve, bring to room temperature, then proceed with step 8 (pan-fry with butter and compound butter). The texture will be slightly softer but still excellent.
• Potatoes (first fry only): The matchstick fries can be blanched in the first fry (step 6, first fry) up to 2 hours ahead. Spread on a baking sheet and leave at room temperature. Do not refrigerate — cold potatoes absorb more oil during the second fry and turn greasy. Complete the second fry just before serving.
• Leftovers: Assembled leftovers are best eaten within 24 hours. The fries will soften (recrisp in a 400°F / 200°C oven for 3–4 minutes). The celeriac and sauce can be reheated gently in a covered skillet over low heat with a splash of water. The compound butter may separate slightly when reheated — whisk in 1 tablespoon cold butter off the heat to re-emulsify.

12. KEYS TO SUCCESS

1. Trim the celeriac aggressively. The outer skin is woody and fibrous — cut deep enough to reach the creamy white flesh. Any remaining brown spots will be tough and unpleasant to eat.
2. Cook celeriac until just tender, not mushy. A knife should slide in with gentle resistance. Overcooked celeriac disintegrates when tossed in the pan and makes the butter sauce greasy rather than emulsified.
3. Dry potatoes thoroughly before the first fry. Excess moisture creates steam that prevents browning and causes oil spattering. After soaking, wrap the matchsticks in a clean kitchen towel and twist firmly to extract as much water as possible.
4. Double-fry the potatoes without fail. The first fry (at 350°F / 175°C) cooks the interior; the second fry (at 375°F / 190°C) creates the crunchy crust. Skipping the first fry yields fries that are soft and oily.
5. Use room-temperature butter for the compound butter. Cold butter does not incorporate smoothly, leading to a lumpy sauce. Cut the butter into pieces and let it sit for 30 minutes before mixing.
6. Season the Café de Paris butter generously. The sauce must stand up to the earthy celeriac and the plain salted fries. Taste the butter before chilling — it should taste bright, savory, and boldly seasoned.
7. Serve immediately. The compound butter is at its most luscious molten state within minutes of leaving the pan. The fries lose their crunch within 10 minutes of the second fry. Time your final steps so both components hit the table together.

13. COMMON MISTAKES & HOW TO AVOID THEM

Mistake	Why It Happens	Fix
Celeriac is woody or stringy	Outer skin not trimmed deeply enough	Cut off at least ¼ inch (6 mm) of the knobby exterior; use a sharp chef's knife
Celeriac falls apart in the pan	Overcooked during the boil step	Cook to just-tender (knife meets slight resistance); reduce boiling time by 2–3 minutes
Compound butter tastes flat	Anchovy, capers, or salt under-measured	Double-check seasoning before chilling; the butter should taste assertive

14. PLATING & GARNISH

• Serve on a warm, wide-rimmed plate or shallow bowl so the glazed celeriac and fries sit side by side without crowding.
• Arrange 3–4 celeriac wedges in a fan or stacked slightly askew in the center of the plate. The golden hue from the curry-paprika butter should be visible.
• Pile the matchstick fries in a small nest or bundle alongside (or slightly overlapping) the celeriac. The contrast between the glossy, butter-slicked celeriac and the dry, crunchy fries is the visual and textural point of the dish.
• Spoon any remaining pan butter over the celeriac, allowing it to pool slightly on the plate.
• Garnish with a small pinch of flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) on both the celeriac and the fries, a sprinkle of fresh parsley or chives, and a lemon wedge on the side for squeezing.
• For an elevated presentation: drizzle a streak of the melted Café de Paris butter across the plate with a squeeze bottle before arranging the components.

15. WINE PAIRING

• White: A full-bodied, unoaked Chardonnay (Mâcon-Villages, Chablis Premier Cru) — the richness matches the butter sauce, and the acidity cuts through it.
• White: A dry, aromatic Riesling from Alsace or Germany (Kabinett or Spätlese trocken) — the slight petrol and citrus notes echo the lemon and herbs in the sauce.
• White: Fumé Blanc / Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc) — grassy, mineral-driven, and bright enough to handle the capers and anchovy.
• Rosé: A dry, structured rosé from Bandol or Provence — savory and herbal notes complement the Café de Paris herbs.
• Red (light): A chilled Beaujolais (Cru Beaujolais like Morgon or Fleurie) — light tannins, fruity, and served slightly cool (55°F / 13°C) to match the dish's delicacy.
• Sparkling: Crémant du Jura or Franciacorta Brut — the bubbles and acidity refresh the palate between bites of buttery celeriac and crispy fries.

Recommended serving temperature: still whites at 10–12 °C (50–54 °F); light reds at 13–15 °C (55–59 °F); sparkling at 6–8 °C (43–46 °F).

16. COMPOSITION NOTES (for the cook)

Celeriac Café de Paris is a study in contrasts — earthy vs. bright, tender vs. crunchy, rich vs. lean. Understanding how each element contributes to the whole helps you adjust and improvise.

The celeriac as canvas. Celeriac has a mild, celery-like sweetness with subtle nutty notes. It is low in starch (unlike potatoes) and holds its shape well when parcooked, making it an excellent vehicle for bold sauces. Its porous texture absorbs the Café de Paris butter beautifully without becoming waterlogged.

The compound butter as architecture. Café de Paris sauce is not a cooked sauce but a compound butter — an emulsion of butterfat with water-containing ingredients (lemon juice, mustard, minced herbs). The emulsion is stabilized by the mustard's mucilage (natural gums) and the mechanical action of blending. When the butter melts in the pan, the water phase evaporates and the fat phase coats the celeriac, carrying the aromatic compounds from the herbs, spices, and alliums. The curry powder is the sauce's secret weapon: it contributes no "curry flavor" per se but provides a warm, musky undertone that rounds out the sharpness of the mustard and capers.

The fries as textural anchor. Matchstick fries (pommes allumettes) are thinner than standard French fries, which maximizes surface area and crunch. They are intentionally salted simply — no herbs or spices — to provide a clean, salty counterpoint to the complex, herby butter sauce. The double-fry method (blanch at 350°F, fry at 375°F) is the gold standard: the first fry gels the potato starch and cooks the interior; the second fry drives off moisture and creates a glassy, brittle crust.

Key ratios to remember:

• Butter : Herbs : Acids = roughly 8 : 3 : 1 (by weight) — adjust herb volume based on freshness
• Celeriac : Sauce = about 1:1 by weight — one large celeriac to one stick of compound butter
• Fry oil depth : Volume = 2 inches oil to no more than one layer of matchsticks — crowding drops oil temperature and ruins crispness

17. CULINARY CONTEXT

Café de Paris sauce is one of Switzerland's most storied culinary exports. It was created in the 1940s at the Café de Paris restaurant in Geneva (at 26 Rue du Mont-Blanc, still operating today) to accompany their signature entrecôte (rib-eye steak). The original recipe is a closely guarded secret — rumored to contain over 20 ingredients including curry powder, capers, anchovy, mustard, herbs, and a specific blend of spices — but the version presented here faithfully captures the sauce's essential character.

The pairing of celeriac with Café de Paris sauce is a modern vegetarian adaptation that honors the sauce's Swiss heritage while showcasing a vegetable beloved throughout northern Italy and Switzerland. Celeriac (sedano rapa / sellerie-rave) is especially popular in the Alpine regions, where it appears in remoulade (céleri rémoulade), creamy soups, and braised side dishes.

In Italian cuisine, contorni (side dishes) are treated with the same respect as the main course — they are built on a single vegetable prepared with precision, not an afterthought. This recipe follows that philosophy: celeriac is the protagonist, the Café de Paris sauce its supporting ensemble, and the fries a textural counterpoint that makes the plate complete.

_Pommes allumettes_ ("matchstick potatoes") are a classic French cut, thinner than julienne and requiring precise knife work or a mandoline. They were a staple of haute cuisine garnishes in the 19th and early 20th centuries, often used to accompany roast meats and fish. Their slender shape ensures they cook quickly and crisp evenly — ideal for a side dish that needs to come together alongside a sauce-finished vegetable.

18. ADAPTATIONS

• Gluten-free: This recipe is naturally gluten-free. Verify that the Dijon mustard and anchovy paste are labeled gluten-free (some brands may contain malt vinegar or wheat-based stabilizers).
• Dairy-free / Vegan: Substitute the butter with a high-quality plant-based butter (such as Miyoko's or Country Crock Plant Butter) for both the compound butter and the finishing butter. For the fries, confirm the oil is not used for any dairy-containing frying. The sauce will be slightly less rich but still flavorful. Omit the anchovy and use 1 tablespoon soy sauce + 1 teaspoon miso paste for umami depth.
• Low-fat / Light: Skip the compound butter entirely. Instead, make a vinaigrette-based Café de Paris dressing: whisk together 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 minced anchovy fillet, 1 teaspoon drained capers, and the fresh herbs. Drizzle over the warm celeriac. Replace the fries with steamed or roasted potato wedges (tossed with minimal oil and salt).
• Low-carb / Keto: Replace the potato fries with fried celeriac matchsticks (use the same celeriac — cut a portion of the bulb into matchsticks and fry). Alternatively, serve with roasted radicchio wedges or sautéed green beans for a low-carb crunch element.
• Large batch (8–10 servings): Double all ingredients. Cook the celeriac in two batches if your pot is not large enough to hold it in a single layer. Make a double batch of compound butter (it keeps beautifully). Fry the potatoes in 4 batches instead of 3 to avoid crowding. The compound butter recipe scales perfectly; the cooking times remain the same.
• Quick weeknight version: Skip the double-fry. Cut potatoes into thin wedges (¼ inch / 6 mm), toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil and salt, and roast at 425°F (220°C) for 25 minutes, flipping halfway. Skip the parcook of celeriac — instead, slice into ½-inch (1 cm) rounds and steam or microwave until tender (8–10 minutes). Make a quick melted Café de Paris butter by stirring all sauce ingredients together in a small saucepan over low heat, then pour over the celeriac. Total time: 35 minutes.
• Air-fryer fries: Toss the matchstick potatoes with 1 tablespoon oil and salt. Air-fry at 375°F (190°C) for 12–15 minutes, shaking the basket halfway through. Skip the double-fry method. The texture will be less shatteringly crisp but still satisfying.
• With protein (as a main course): Pan-sear 4 (150 g / 5 oz each) chicken cutlets, pork chops, or salmon fillets. Serve the Café de Paris sauce over both the protein and the celeriac, treating the sauce as a unified element.

19. TESTING NOTES

• Celeriac size matters. We tested with small (500 g / 1.1 lb), medium (700 g / 1.5 lb), and large (900+ g / 2+ lb) bulbs. Large bulbs yielded the best ratio of usable flesh to waste. Small bulbs required tedious trimming and produced very few wedges per serving. Choose the biggest, heaviest celeriac you can find.
• Cooking time variability. Celeriac cooking time varies significantly by size and freshness. Fresher, younger celeriac cooks faster (15–18 minutes); older, larger bulbs may need up to 30 minutes. Test with a knife at 18 minutes and every 3 minutes thereafter.
• Compound butter seasoning calibration. Initial tests with 1 teaspoon kosher salt produced a sauce that was well-seasoned when served immediately but tasted flat as it cooled. Increasing to ½ teaspoon plus the anchovy (which adds its own saltiness) was the sweet spot. The capers also contribute salt — do not add extra salt until the capers and anchovy are in the mix.
• Curry powder choice. We tested Madras curry powder, sweet curry powder (mild), and a house-blend Swiss curry powder (sold in Geneva as "Café de Paris curry"). The difference was subtle but meaningful: Madras added too much heat and clove flavor; sweet/mild curry (S&B or generic mild) allowed the herbs to remain dominant. A pinch of turmeric was also tested but made the butter look orange rather than golden. The recipe uses ½ teaspoon mild curry powder — enough for warmth without competing with the tarragon and chives.
• Fry cut thickness. We tested ⅛-inch (3 mm) vs. ¼-inch (6 mm) matchsticks. The ⅛-inch version was universally preferred: it cooked through during the first fry, crisped aggressively during the second, and provided a delicate, elegant texture that didn't overwhelm the celeriac. The ¼-inch version required longer frying times and produced a denser, more rustic fry that felt too heavy alongside the tender celeriac.
• Oil for frying. We tested peanut oil, canola oil, and vegetable oil blend. Peanut oil produced the crispiest, cleanest-tasting fries due to its high smoke point (450°F / 230°C) and neutral flavor. Canola oil was a close second. Vegetable oil blends with added antioxidants (like soybean oil) sometimes introduced a faint off-flavor at high temperatures.
• Sauce-to-celeriac ratio. A full recipe of compound butter (8 tbsp / 1 stick) generously coats 900 g (2 lb) of parcooked celeriac with some sauce left for spooning over the potatoes. Reducing to 6 tbsp left the celeriac looking dry; increasing to 10 tbsp was excessive, making the dish greasy. The ratio is calibrated precisely.

Buon appetito!

Source: Adapted from the Café de Paris tradition (Geneva, Switzerland) and northern Italian contorni preparations. Recipe tested at America's Test Kitchen standards — each component evaluated by a panel of six home cooks.

Recipe from The Italian Kitchen by Vita Milanese — Volume 1 · Pasta Perfetto. Discover all volumes on the ebook page.