Savory, briny, and deeply umami — a Sicilian-inspired pasta where sweet braised fennel meets salty anchovies and rich black olives.
| Amount | Ingredient |
|---|---|
| 320 g (11 oz) | Penne or similar short pasta |
| 1 large bulb | Fennel (about 300 g) |
| 6-8 fillets | Anchovy fillets (oil-packed) |
| 1/3 cup | Black olives (pitted, such as Gaeta or Kalamata) |
| 3 tbsp | Extra-virgin olive oil |
| 2 cloves | Garlic, thinly sliced |
| 1 small | Fresh chili (or 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes) |
| 1/4 cup | Fresh parsley, chopped |
| Salt, for pasta water |
Step 1: Prep the Fennel
Trim the fennel: cut off the stalks and fronds (reserve a few fronds for garnish). Remove any tough outer layers. Halve the bulb lengthwise, remove the core, and slice crosswise into thin 1/4-inch (5 mm) slices. Set aside.
Why slice thin? Thin slices cook quickly and evenly, softening into a sweet, almost silky texture that melds with the sauce.
Step 2: Sauté the Aromatics
Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and chili (or red pepper flakes). Cook for 1 minute, stirring frequently, until fragrant but not browned — burnt garlic turns bitter.
Step 3: Dissolve the Anchovies
Add the anchovy fillets to the pan. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon, breaking them apart. They will "melt" into the oil within 30-60 seconds, creating a deeply savory base.
Don't skip this! Anchovies are the secret backbone of the sauce — they don't taste fishy, just rich and savory (umami).
Step 4: Cook the Fennel
Add the sliced fennel to the pan along with a splash of water (about 2 tablespoons). Season with a pinch of salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 8-10 minutes, until the fennel is tender and translucent, with some golden edges.
Step 5: Add the Olives
Halve or roughly chop the olives. Add them to the pan and cook for 2 more minutes, allowing the flavors to meld.
Step 6: Cook the Pasta
While the fennel cooks, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Cook the penne according to package directions until al dente. Reserve about 1/2 cup of pasta cooking water before draining.
Step 7: Toss and Serve
Drain the pasta and add it directly to the sauté pan with the fennel-anchovy mixture. Toss vigorously over low heat, adding a splash of reserved pasta water (about 1/4 cup) to create a light sauce that coats the pasta.
Remove from heat. Stir in half the chopped parsley. Taste and adjust salt — the anchovies and olives are already salty, so additional salt may not be needed.
Serve immediately, garnished with the remaining parsley and a few reserved fennel fronds.
| Mistake | Why | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Overcooking the anchovies | They become bitter and lose their umami | Add them after the garlic, stir until melted, then proceed immediately |
| Skipping the pasta water | The sauce is oily and doesn't coat the pasta | Always reserve at least 1/2 cup of starchy pasta water |
| Undercooking the fennel | Crunchy, raw fennel is too harsh for this dish | Cook until fully tender — 8-10 minutes of gentle heat |
| Adding extra salt too early | Anchovies and olives are already salty | Taste before adding any salt; you likely won't need any |
Best eaten immediately. Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Reheat gently in a pan with a splash of water or olive oil. The fennel will continue to soften, so don't expect the same texture as fresh.
| Wine | Why |
|---|---|
| Vermentino di Sardegna | Bright acidity and herbal notes cut through the rich anchovy oil |
| Grillo (Sicily) | Native Sicilian white with citrus and almond — a natural match |
| Etna Rosso | Light, earthy red with bright acidity — surprisingly good with anchovies |
| Beer | Why |
|---|---|
| Italian Pilsner | Clean, crisp, high carbonation cuts through the savory sauce |
| Belgian Witbier | Spicy, citrusy notes complement the fennel's anise character |
| Calories | Protein | Fat | Carbs | Fiber |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 475 | 15 g | 18 g | 62 g | 5 g |
Can I use dried anchovies instead of oil-packed?
Oil-packed fillets are preferred — they dissolve more easily. If using salted anchovies, rinse them well, debone, and pat dry before using.
Is this dish very fishy?
No! When properly dissolved in hot oil, anchovies add deep savory (umami) flavor without any overt fishiness. Even people who "don't like anchovies" often love this dish.
Can I use fennel seeds instead of fresh fennel?
Fresh fennel bulb is key here — its sweetness and texture are central to the dish. Fennel seeds would add a different, more intense anise note and won't provide the bulk. Save seeds for a different recipe.
What if I don't have black olives?
Green olives work too, though they're brinier and less rich. Kalamata olives are a good substitute.
Recipe from The Italian Kitchen by Vita Milanese — Volume 1 · Pasta Perfetto. Discover all volumes on the ebook page.