Pea Cream Risotto with Crispy Guanciale
A bright spring risotto — silky pea cream brightened with lemon, mantecato with robiola, and crowned with crispy guanciale. The pea pods themselves become the broth.
| Amount | Ingredient |
|---|---|
| 10½ oz (300 g) | Carnaroli rice |
| 10½ oz (300 g) | shelled peas |
| 1 | fresh spring onion (scallion) |
| 10 thin slices | guanciale |
| 1 | lemon |
| fresh mint | |
| ¼ cup (50 g) | white wine |
| 1¾ oz (50 g) | robiola cheese |
| ¾ oz (20 g) | Parmigiano Reggiano, grated |
| 1½ oz (40 g) | cold butter |
| fine salt and black pepper |
This is risotto where nothing goes to waste. The pea pods are simmered into a delicate broth that cooks the rice, while the peas themselves become a silky, lemon-bright cream. The rice is toasted dry, deglazed with white wine, and finished with a mantecatura of robiola, Parmigiano, cold butter, and more lemon zest. Crisp, slowly-rendered guanciale slices crown each bowl, and fresh mint adds the final spring note. It's elegant, seasonal, and unforgettable.
Ingredient notes: Save the pea pods — they make the broth that cooks the rice. Robiola is a soft, creamy Italian cheese; fresh goat cheese or mascarpone substitutes well. Guanciale is cured pork jowl — pancetta is the closest substitute. Render it slowly until crisp.
- Skillet (for the guanciale)
- Large pot (for the pea-pod broth)
- Immersion blender
- Fine-mesh strainer
- Large saucepan (for the risotto)
- Crisp the guanciale (8 min). Lay the guanciale slices in a cold skillet and heat over medium — the fat renders gradually. Once browned, remove and drain on paper towels.
- Shell the peas (5 min). Shell the peas. Reserve a handful for garnish. Use the pods to make a vegetable broth.
- Braise the peas (15 min). Clean and slice the spring onion. In the guanciale pan, braise the onion with the peas (reserving a handful), add a ladle of broth, and cook gently 10-15 minutes.
- Blend the cream (5 min). Transfer the cooked peas to a tall container, add lemon zest and the juice of half the lemon, and blend until smooth. Pass through a strainer for silkiness.
- Cook the risotto (18 min). Toast the rice dry with a pinch of salt over medium heat. Deglaze with the white wine and let it evaporate. Cook with the pea-pod broth, one ladle at a time. A couple of minutes before the end, fold in the pea cream.
- Manteca (3 min). Off the heat, stir in the Parmigiano, robiola, cold butter, pepper, and lemon zest. Cover with a towel and rest 2 minutes. Saltate all'onda.
- Plate (2 min). Serve with a ring mold if you like, garnishing with the reserved raw peas, fresh mint, and crispy guanciale.
- Render the guanciale slowly. Starting cold lets the fat melt gradually for maximum crispness.
- Save the pods. The pea-pod broth is a free, seasonal stock — the dish's foundation.
- Reserve a handful of peas. Raw peas on top pop with sweetness against the creamy rice.
- Blend and strain the cream. Silky, not chunky — that's the point.
- Rest before serving. Two minutes under a towel lets the risotto settle into all'onda.
- Mint at the end. Fresh mint brightens; cooked mint fades.
| Mistake | Why It Hurts | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Throwing away the pods | Missing the seasonal broth | Simmer pods into stock |
| Rushing the guanciale | Chewy, unrendered fat | Cold pan, medium heat, patience |
| Unstrained pea cream | Lumpy rice | Pass through a fine strainer |
| Adding the cream too early | Muddy color | Final 2 minutes only |
| Warm butter | Oily mantecatura | Use cold butter |
| Over-salting | Guanciale and cheese bring salt | Taste before adding salt |
- Saffron Pea: Steep saffron in the first ladle for golden-green contrast.
- Pancetta Version: Use thick-cut pancetta instead of guanciale.
- Mint Oil: Blend mint with olive oil and drizzle over.
- Vegan Version: Skip the cheeses and guanciale; use olive oil and a splash of oat cream.
- Lemon Confit: Add diced lemon confit for intense citrus.
| Storage Method | Details |
|---|---|
| Refrigerator | Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days. |
| Freezer | Not recommended — the creamy emulsion breaks. |
| Reheating | Warm gently in a skillet with a splash of broth, stirring until creamy. |
A bright spring risotto pairs with fresh, aromatic wines:
- Lugana — Soft, citrusy, and elegant.
- Gavi di Gavi — Crisp and mineral with the peas.
- Vermentino — Saline freshness.
- Prosecco Brut — Bubbles for spring.
| Per Serving (about 1¼ cups) | |
|---|---|
| Calories | 520 |
| Protein | 17 g |
| Fat | 19 g |
| Carbohydrates | 70 g |
| Fiber | 5 g |
Nutrition values are approximate and will vary with brand choices and substitutions.
What is guanciale?
Cured pork jowl — the most flavorful of Italian cured meats. It renders into melting, crispy perfection. Pancetta is the closest substitute.
Why use the pea pods for broth?
They're sweet and full of flavor — simmering them is free, seasonal stock that makes the dish taste of spring.
What is robiola?
A soft, creamy Italian cheese with a delicate tang. Fresh goat cheese or mascarpone works in its place.
Can I make it vegan?
Yes — skip the cheeses and guanciale, use olive oil for the mantecatura, and add a splash of oat or soy cream for silkiness.
What does "all'onda" mean?
"Like a wave" — the risotto should ripple loosely when the pan is tilted. The towel rest helps achieve it.
- Risotto ai Fiori di Zucca (Volume 3)
- Risotto con Crema di Zucchine e Gamberi Crudi (Volume 3)
- Riso al Forno (Volume 3)
Recipe from "The Italian Kitchen" by Vita Milanese — Volume 3: Risotto & Rice
Recipe from The Italian Kitchen by Vita Milanese — Volume 3 · Risotto & Rice. Discover all volumes on the ebook page.