Shrimp and Leek Risotto
A refined seafood risotto for special occasions — shrimp stock built from the shells, sweet braised leeks, and a final mantecatura of goat ricotta that makes it silkier than butter.
| Amount | Ingredient |
|---|---|
| 11 oz (320 g) | Carnaroli rice |
| 17½ oz (500 g) | shrimp, to clean |
| 2 | carrots |
| 1 | leek (plus trimmings for the fumetto) |
| 3 tbsp (40 g) | butter |
| 3 tbsp (40 g) | white wine |
| 1 | lemon, zest only |
| fresh parsley | |
| fresh thyme | |
| 1½ oz (40 g) | goat ricotta |
| fresh marjoram | |
| extra-virgin olive oil | |
| fine salt and black peppercorns |
This risotto is a masterclass in layering flavor. Nothing is wasted: the shrimp shells and leek trimmings are toasted and simmered into a golden fumetto that becomes the cooking liquid — the very soul of the dish. The leeks themselves are braised slowly in butter until they turn sweet and jammy, then folded into the rice midway. The final surprise is a mantecatura of goat ricotta instead of the usual butter-and-cheese, giving a tangy, velvety finish that pairs beautifully with the lemon-kissed shrimp.
Ingredient notes: The fumetto is made from shrimp shells and leek trimmings — save every scrap. The goat ricotta mantecatura replaces the classic butter-and-Parmigiano, so don't skip it; it's the signature of this dish. Black peppercorns go in the fumetto whole.
- Large pot (for the fumetto)
- Fine-mesh strainer
- Large saucepan (for the risotto)
- Skillet (for the leeks)
- Prep (15 min). Trim the leek, saving the green tops and base. Wash and chop the carrot. Clean the shrimp, reserving all shells and heads.
- Build the fumetto (1 hr). In a pot, toast the shrimp shells, leek trimmings, carrot, parsley, thyme, salt, and peppercorns with a drizzle of oil over high heat. Deglaze with the wine and let it evaporate. Cover with cold water and simmer for 1 hour. Strain and keep hot.
- Braise the leeks (8 min). Slice the leek into thin rounds and cook gently in the butter until golden and tender. Set aside.
- Prep the shrimp (5 min). Cut the shrimp into pieces and season with salt and lemon zest.
- Cook the risotto (15 min). Toast the rice dry, then cook it with the hot fumetto, one ladle at a time. After about 10 minutes, add the braised leeks and finish cooking.
- Manteca (2 min). Off the heat, stir in the goat ricotta and marjoram until silky. Serve hot.
- Toast the shells hard. The high-heat toasting before simmering deepens the fumetto's flavor enormously.
- Cold water in the fumetto. Cold water locks in the sweet shrimp flavor; hot water makes it cloudy.
- Braise the leeks slowly. Leeks need gentle heat to release their sweetness — rushing makes them bitter.
- Season shrimp with lemon zest. It perfumes the shrimp without any acidity harshness.
- Manteca with goat ricotta. It's tangier and silkier than butter — the dish's signature.
- Keep the fumetto hot. Cold stock ruins the risotto's creaminess.
| Mistake | Why It Hurts | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Skipping the fumetto | Flat, one-dimensional rice | Simmer the shells — it's the heart of the dish |
| Burning the shells | Bitter stock | Toast over high heat but stir constantly |
| Rushing the leeks | Bitter, raw onion flavor | Braise gently until golden and sweet |
| Adding the leeks too early | Mushy, invisible | Fold in after 10 minutes of cooking |
| Overcooking the rice | Porridge | Taste at 15 minutes; keep a bite |
| Over-salting | The fumetto is already seasoned | Taste before adding salt |
- Saffron Shrimp Leek: Steep saffron in the first ladle of fumetto for golden rice.
- Champagne Version: Deglaze the shells with Champagne instead of white wine.
- Lemon Confit: Add diced lemon confit with the leeks.
- Spicy Version: Add red pepper flakes with the shrimp.
- Herb Garden: Finish with chives or dill instead of marjoram.
| Storage Method | Details |
|---|---|
| Refrigerator | Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days. |
| Freezer | Not recommended — shrimp and ricotta texture break. |
| Reheating | Warm gently in a skillet with a splash of fumetto, stirring until creamy. |
A refined seafood risotto deserves elegant wines:
- Franciacorta Brut — Bubbles and elegance for a special occasion.
- Vermentino — Saline and crisp with the shrimp.
- Lugana — Soft, nutty, and generous.
- Gavi di Gavi — Mineral and refined.
| Per Serving (about 1¼ cups) | |
|---|---|
| Calories | 530 |
| Protein | 26 g |
| Fat | 15 g |
| Carbohydrates | 72 g |
| Fiber | 3 g |
Nutrition values are approximate and will vary with brand choices and substitutions.
What is a fumetto?
An Italian shellfish stock made by simmering shrimp shells with aromatics — the flavor backbone of seafood risottos.
Can I skip the goat ricotta?
It's the signature — but mascarpone or a good fresh ricotta make reasonable substitutes.
How long does the fumetto need?
A full hour of gentle simmering extracts maximum flavor. It can be made ahead and freezes well.
Can I use frozen shrimp?
Yes — thaw overnight in the fridge and save the shells for the stock.
Why braise the leeks separately?
Slow-cooked leeks become sweet and tender; cooked in the rice they'd be lost. Separate cooking preserves their identity.
- Risotto ai Gamberi (Volume 3)
- Risotto ai Porri (Volume 3)
- Risotto con Crema di Zucchine e Gamberi Crudi (Volume 3)
Recipe from "The Italian Kitchen" by Vita Milanese — Volume 3: Risotto & Rice
Recipe from The Italian Kitchen by Vita Milanese — Volume 3 · Risotto & Rice. Discover all volumes on the ebook page.