Queen's Risotto
The risotto that won over a queen — chef Enrico Derflingher's refined seafood creation, where red shrimp and Franciacorta sparkling wine meet in a creamy, herb-scented rice.
| Amount | Ingredient |
|---|---|
| 12⅓ oz (350 g) | Carnaroli rice |
| 17½ oz (500 g) | red shrimp (gamberi rossi) |
| 1 cup + ½ cup | Franciacorta sparkling wine |
| ½ | red onion |
| 4 cups (1 l) | shellfish fumetto, hot |
| extra-virgin olive oil | |
| 2¾ oz (80 g) | butter |
| 2¾ oz (80 g) | Parmigiano Reggiano, grated |
| fresh thyme | |
| fresh marjoram |
Legend has it that this risotto conquered Queen Elizabeth II, and one taste explains why. It's a study in elegance: Carnaroli rice toasted and deglazed with Franciacorta — the great Lombard sparkling wine — then slowly coaxed to creaminess with a shellfish fumetto. Red shrimp, cut into pieces, melt into the rice halfway through, while a final splash of Franciacorta off the heat adds a brilliant, celebratory lift. Each bowl is crowned with raw red shrimp and fresh herbs. Royal, indeed.
Ingredient notes: Gamberi rossi — the prized deep-red Mediterranean shrimp — are the classic choice; the raw ones are sweet enough to eat crudo. Franciacorta is a Lombard sparkling wine; any quality dry sparkling wine (or Champagne) works. The fumetto is made from the shrimp shells.
- Medium pot (for the fumetto)
- Large saucepan (for the risotto)
- Wooden spoon
- Fine-mesh strainer
- Prepare the shrimp and fumetto (20 min). Clean the shrimp, removing heads and shells. Keep some whole raw shrimp for the garnish. Simmer the shells and heads with aromatics to make a shellfish fumetto, and keep it hot.
- Start the soffritto (5 min). Heat a drizzle of oil in the saucepan. Add the finely chopped red onion and stew gently over low heat.
- Toast the rice (3 min). Add the rice and toast until the grains are very hot, then deglaze with the Franciacorta. Let it evaporate completely.
- Cook the risotto (15 min). Cook the rice, adding the hot fumetto one ladle at a time. At the halfway point, add two-thirds of the shrimp cut into small pieces and continue cooking.
- Manteca (2 min). When the risotto is ready, remove from the heat and stir in the butter and grated Parmigiano. Season with the chopped herbs and a thread of oil.
- Finish (1 min). Stir in half a glass of Franciacorta off the heat. Plate, crown each bowl with the raw shrimp, and finish with fresh herbs.
- Keep some shrimp raw. The raw garnish is the royal touch — sweet, silky, and beautiful.
- Franciacorta twice. Once to deglaze, once off the heat — the final splash adds a brilliant lift.
- Fumetto is everything. The shrimp-shell stock carries the dish; simmer it fully.
- Toast until very hot. Properly toasted rice feels rovente (very hot) when touched.
- Manteca off the heat. Butter and Parmigiano emulsify into silk off the flame.
- Serve immediately. The raw shrimp garnish is at its best within minutes.
| Mistake | Why It Hurts | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Cooking all the shrimp | No raw garnish, rubbery texture | Reserve a few whole shrimp for the crown |
| Cheap sparkling wine | Flat flavor | Use good Franciacorta or dry sparkling wine |
| Weak fumetto | One-dimensional rice | Simmer shells fully and reduce properly |
| Adding the wine too late | Raw alcohol taste | Deglaze early; finish splash after the heat is off |
| Overcooking the rice | Porridge | Taste at 15 minutes; keep a faint bite |
| Over-salting | Fumetto and cheese bring salt | Taste before adding salt |
- Champagne Version: Replace Franciacorta with Champagne for the same royal effect.
- Saffron Queen: Steep saffron in the first ladle of fumetto for golden color.
- Lemon Queen: Finish with lemon zest for brightness.
- Scampi Version: Use scampi instead of red shrimp for extra sweetness.
- Caviar Crown: Top with a spoonful of caviar for true extravagance.
| Storage Method | Details |
|---|---|
| Refrigerator | Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days (without the raw shrimp). |
| Freezer | Not recommended — shrimp and creamy texture break. |
| Reheating | Warm gently in a skillet with a splash of fumetto, stirring until creamy. |
This is a celebration risotto — pour something sparkling:
- Franciacorta Brut — The same wine used in the recipe; its bubbles cut the cream.
- Champagne Brut — The royal choice, for obvious reasons.
- Gavi di Gavi — Crisp and mineral as a still alternative.
- Vermentino — Saline freshness that echoes the shrimp.
| Per Serving (about 1¼ cups) | |
|---|---|
| Calories | 580 |
| Protein | 26 g |
| Fat | 19 g |
| Carbohydrates | 70 g |
| Fiber | 2 g |
Nutrition values are approximate and will vary with brand choices and substitutions.
Who was the Queen in the name?
Chef Enrico Derflingher created this risotto for Queen Elizabeth II — hence "Risotto della Regina."
Can I use regular shrimp?
Yes — any good-quality raw shrimp works. Red shrimp (gamberi rossi) are the classic for their sweetness.
Do I need real Franciacorta?
It's traditional, but any quality dry sparkling wine works beautifully.
What is fumetto?
Italian shellfish stock made from shrimp shells — the flavor foundation of the dish.
Can I make the fumetto ahead?
Yes — it freezes well for up to 3 months.
- Risotto ai Gamberi (Volume 3)
- Risotto del Re (Volume 3)
- Risotto al Granchio Blu (Volume 3)
Recipe from "The Italian Kitchen" by Vita Milanese — Volume 3: Risotto & Rice
Recipe from The Italian Kitchen by Vita Milanese — Volume 3 · Risotto & Rice. Discover all volumes on the ebook page.