Four-Cheese Risotto with Walnuts
Sergio Barzetti's triumphant four-cheese risotto from "È sempre mezzogiorno" — raspadura, fresh cheese, gorgonzola dolce, toma piemontese, and griddled caciocavallo, crowned with walnuts and pimpinella.
| Amount | Ingredient |
|---|---|
| 11¼ oz (320 g) | Carnaroli rice |
| 5¼ oz (150 g) | raspadura (aged cheese shavings) |
| 3½ oz (100 g) | fresh spreadable cheese |
| 7 oz (200 g) | gorgonzola dolce |
| 3½ oz (100 g) | toma piemontese |
| 2 slices | caciocavallo |
| 1¾ oz (50 g) | grated cheese (Parmigiano or Grana) |
| 5¼ oz (150 g) | walnuts, shelled |
| 1 oz (30 g) | butter |
| 1 quart (1 L) | hot vegetable broth |
| 1 | bay leaf |
| pimpinella (salad burnet) or fresh thyme | |
| fine salt, black pepper |
The "pretone" of the show's cast — the great Lombard cook Sergio Barzetti — made this risotto a triumph of cheeses. Caciocavallo slices are griddled until golden, walnuts are toasted in butter with the rice, and the risotto is mantecato with grated cheese, fresh spreadable cheese, toma piemontese cubes, and the griddled caciocavallo. It's finished with shavings of raspadura, more gorgonzola, and pimpinella — a triumph worthy of turning your hair white.
Ingredient notes: Raspberry — a thin-shaved aged mountain cheese — is used as a garnish; shave it with a vegetable peeler. Toma piemontese is a mild Piedmont cow's milk cheese; fontina or taleggio substitute. Pimpinella (salad burnet) is a delicate herb; fresh thyme or chives work if unavailable.
- Skillet (for the caciocavallo)
- Large saucepan (for the risotto)
- Vegetable peeler (for the raspadura)
- Wooden spoon
- Ladle
- Griddle the caciocavallo (3 min). In a hot pan, melt the 2 slices of caciocavallo and let them brown on both sides. Set aside.
- Toast the walnuts (3 min). In a saucepan, toast the shelled walnuts in a knob of butter.
- Toast the rice (3 min). Add the rice to the pan with the walnuts and toast together.
- Cook the risotto (18 min). Add the bay leaf, moisten with the hot vegetable broth, and cook until al dente.
- Manteca (3 min). Off the heat, mantecare with the grated cheese, the fresh spreadable cheese, the toma piemontese in small cubes, and the griddled caciocavallo. Mix well.
- Serve (2 min). Plate and finish with shavings of raspadura, more gorgonzola, and pimpinella leaves.
- Caciocavallo griddled, not melted. Browning it first gives crispy, golden shards with a nutty flavor.
- Walnuts toasted in butter. They perfume the rice from the very start.
- Cheeses off the heat. Every cheese melts into silk only after the pan leaves the stove.
- Toma in cubes. Small cubes melt slowly, leaving little pockets of cheese.
- Raspadura at the end. Shaved over the plate, it stays crisp and salty.
- Taste before salting. Four cheeses bring plenty of salt.
| Mistake | Why It Hurts | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Melting the caciocavallo | Lost the crispy shards | Griddle until golden both sides |
| Burning the walnuts | Bitter rice | Knob of butter, gentle heat |
| Cheeses on the heat | Grainy, separated sauce | All off the heat |
| Big toma cubes | Slow melting, cold pockets | Small cubes |
| Over-salting | The cheeses are salty | Taste before adding salt |
| Skipping the rest | Thin risotto | 2 minutes off the heat |
- Taleggio Version: Swap toma for taleggio for stronger character.
- Pear Four-Cheese: Caramelized pear cubes — a classic pairing.
- Truffle Four-Cheese: A few drops of truffle oil at the end.
- Walnut-Free: Skip the walnuts for a pure cheese risotto.
- Herb Garden: Fresh thyme or chives instead of pimpinella.
| Storage Method | Details |
|---|---|
| Refrigerator | Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days. |
| Freezer | Not recommended — the creamy emulsion breaks. |
| Reheating | Warm gently in a skillet with a splash of broth, stirring until creamy. |
A cheese triumph deserves serious wines:
- Barolo — Nebbiolo's power matches the cheeses.
- Amarone — Rich and dense.
- Franciacorta Brut — Bubbles cut the richness.
- Chardonnay (oaked) — Buttery and full.
| Per Serving (about 1¼ cups) | |
|---|---|
| Calories | 720 |
| Protein | 30 g |
| Fat | 34 g |
| Carbohydrates | 72 g |
| Fiber | 3 g |
Nutrition values are approximate and will vary with brand choices and substitutions.
What is raspadura?
A thin-shaved, aged mountain cheese from Lombardy, served in delicate shavings — like a cheese "snow" over the plate.
What is pimpinella?
Salad burnet — a delicate herb with a cucumber-like freshness. Fresh thyme or chives substitute well.
Who is Sergio Barzetti?
A beloved Lombard cook, a regular on the Italian TV show "È sempre mezzogiorno," famous for his generous, traditional cooking.
Can I use fewer cheeses?
The "four cheese" name is the point — but any three of them make a delicious risotto.
Is this very rich?
Yes — it's a celebration dish. Serve smaller portions with a light salad.
- Risotto del Re (Volume 3)
- Risotto al Gorgonzola (Volume 3)
- Risotto con Taleggio, Pere e Noci (Volume 3)
Recipe from "The Italian Kitchen" by Vita Milanese — Volume 3: Risotto & Rice
Recipe from The Italian Kitchen by Vita Milanese — Volume 3 · Risotto & Rice. Discover all volumes on the ebook page.